Today we visited the "wild wild West" of Northern Cyprus: the area around Guzelyurt and Lefke.  It's a lovely drive along the northern coast where the road runs first close to the sea and then branches inland and up into the hills.  We passed the new reservoir filled to the brim with the water coming through the underwater pipeline from Turkey.  Great to see.  Hoping we'll get a lot of it soon.  It's supposed to be already coming down the pipes but our water is still being rationed for summer so not entirely sure about that. 
​After the huge reservoir, the road runs through pine forest with quite a few areas of military land.  On one of them is the Mavi Kosk, or Blue Mansion.  It was apparently built in the 1950s for an infamous Italian, named Paulides.  He was the lawyer of Archbishop Makarios and rumoured to be a gun smuggler and leader of the terrorist group EOKA who killed many British servicemen and Turkish Cypriots during the troubles in the 1960s and early 70s.  The house is as eccentric as its owner and well preserved and cared for.  The grounds are particularly beautiful with spectacular views.  Paulides had to flee in 1974 and was eventually shot dead in Italy in the 80s!   Well worth a visit.
​We then travelled on through huge orange orchards to Guzelyurt itself, a dusty market town.  There we visited the archaeological museum in the former Bishop's palace (abandoned in 1974).  A very interesting collection including some amazing gold jewellery found in Soli in 2007 including a spectacular laurel wreath made of thin gold.  So beautiful.  Our ticket also included entry to St Mamas Church, one of the finest Orthodox churches on the island.  It is kept locked and as you walk through the door, you realise why.  Amazingly preserved as on the day the priest fled.  The lovely chairs are all in place, his robes, many icons and most spectacular of all, the chandeliers.  Huge with lovely crystal.  The first church was built over a Temple of Astarte in the 4th century and then rebuilt again and a dome added in the 1700s.  St Mama is a popular saint in the eastern Med.  He's the Patron Saint of Tax Dodgers.  True.  Mama was a hermit living in a cave in the 4th century and he was summoned before the Roman Governor for not paying his tax.  On the way, he came across a lamb being chased by a lion and he saved the lamb and rode into town on the back of the lion.  The Governor was so impressed, he pardoned him.  St Mama is buried in the church and there is a hole into his tomb from which leaks a liquid said to have healing powers.  The liquid has changed over the years apparently but certainly today, if you poke your finger in, a large dollop of olive oil will ooze out. 
​We stopped at a kebab shop near the church and had a most delicious doner kebab.  We shared one but I rather wish we'd had one each!!!!!
​Then on further west to the ruins of ancient Soli, one of the 10 great cities of Cyprus in ancient times.  Soli was inhabited from about 1000 BC but what remains visible is Roman: a great Basilica, an amphitheatre and the agora/forum.  There are also temple remains but these are covered.  The basilica floor has some delightful mosaics of swans, ducks and other animals and fish.  The entire basilica has been covered by an effective but rather ugly roof for protection.  You can see the ruins by means of wooden walkways built above them.   The theatre is very nice, facing out to sea.  Its only half the size it would have been.  Apparently the Brits carted away most of it to build Suez in the Nineteenth Century.  How embarrassing! 
​A most enjoyable day.  All the places well worth a visit.
​Got back to the villa by about 3pm.  Jumped straight into the pool.  It's still so hot at the end of September.  Tonight we bbq'd steak and also lamb and vegetables kebabs and ate them beside the pool.  It was heavenly and so very privileged when it is nearly October.

fFood is paramount in Cyprus.  There are so many restaurants and, honestly, it's hard to find a bad one.  If they're bad, they go out of business.  Fast.  The food is driven by the quality of the produce here and the overall generosity of the cuisine.  Expect tables groaning with food.  Hosts that hug you in welcome as if you'd been frequenting their restaurant for years and an even warmer welcome for your children.  And you'll struggle to pay more than about £10 to £15 per head for a feast of food and a free brandy and coffee to round it all off. 
​Bearing that in mind, I have to say it is also a huge pleasure to dine at home in Villa Rockheart. We love to use the bbq, built with love by our dear friend, Dave.  He built it over a stay in February..... the coldest February in 50 years. The only February when a sprinkling of snow fell on our side of the mountain slopes.   It took grit and determination to stand out in the icy wind.  And then to add insult to injury, the weather remained hideous enough that they never got to use the bbq throughout their stay.  Luckily, they're returning very soon and it will get a real baptism then....
​We also have the wood burning oven too, the traditional Cypriot method of slow cooking everything from leg of lamb, kleftiko to bread.  We have also used it for pizza, made in literally seconds..... unbelievably delicious. 
​So...... so far we have sampled both restaurant and home cooking.  Last night we visited Villaggio Templos, a fantastic, traditional Cypriot restaurant, set in olive clad hills.  The have a full a la carte menu but the stars of the show are the two meze menus.  One at £12pp, the other at £14pp.  Both menus centre around a main course of either rack of lamb, shoulder of lamb or leg of lamb.  The lamb is preceded by bread, olives and dips, a number of cold small plates, a number of hot small plates and followed by dessert, coffee and local brandy.  We opted for the cheaper of the two mezes but it was still huge and we ended up taking home a doggy bag of roast leg of lamb.  The lamb was just so delicious.  Melt in the mouth tender, and super juicy. 
​Tonight we ate at the villa.  Bob bbq'd some enormous pork chops, purchased from The Pork Shop, a speciality butcher at the bottom of our hill.  They were the size of rib eye beef steaks: thick and huge.  We also cooked potato wedges drizzled in olive oil, garlic and fresh coriander and washed the lot down with Turkish red and white wine.  Dessert was scoops of local Mardos ice cream, from the parlour at the bottom of the hill.  So delicious.  I had cheesecake and chocolate scoops.  There are so many flavours. 
​So, take your pick.  We will eat at home many more times before the end of the holiday.  The bbq is just too ideal this time of year.    And we will no doubt eat out at many more local restaurants.  Eating well is not a problem here. Well.... only picking which restaurant to choose... that IS a problem!